High-fructose corn syrup (HFCS) has had a bad rap for some time, but now that the debate over the causes of the ever-spreading obesity epidemic has heated up, HFCS is being singled out as a definite suspect.

In response to the allegations made by a growing number of nutrition experts, the Corn Refiners Association, a trade group that represents the corn refining industry nationwide, has asked the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to change the name from HFCS to “corn sugar.” In addition to the proposed name change, they have also released a series of TV commercials insinuating that HFCS is as “natural” as sugar. A few dietitians were also enlisted as spokespersons for the industry to help reassure concerned consumers that HFCS is nutritionally equivalent to sugar and should not be made the scapegoat.

Those who are worried about HFCS in processed foods and beverages say that this type of sweetener is a major contributor to any number of diet-related health problems, including obesity, kidney- and liver disease and possibly pancreatic cancer.

As the name says, HFCS is syrup made from corn. Through enzymatic processing a certain percentage of its glucose content is converted into fructose. This enhances its sweetness. But there are many more advantages to HFCS. Because it is produced in liquid form, it is more versatile in the processing of foods and beverages than sugar. It prevents freezer burns in items stored at low temperature. It makes foods look fresher and more appetizing. It also helps to extend shelf life while maintaining taste and texture.

The best part, however, is the price. In the 1970s the U.S. government began to heavily subsidize corn and helped thereby increase supply while keeping prices down. In addition, tariffs and quotas were imposed on sugar imports. Predictably, food and beverage manufacturers switched from expensive sugar to cheap corn in a jiffy.

This brought enormous changes to both manufacturing as well as consumer behavior. For instance, when soft drink companies replaced sugar with HFCS, they could soon offer much bigger bottles for marginally higher prices. Consumers welcomed the “extra value” and consumed more. Average soda sales per capita nearly doubled since the 70s, the highest increase being among children.

Because HFCS is so cheap, its use has become so prevalent that there is almost no escape from it. Most consumers, even the most health-conscious ones, are not aware of the extent HFCS is utilized. Besides almost all processed and canned foods, HFCS is present in such diverse items as breads, cereals, lunch meats, yogurts, soups, condiments and many more foods and drinks, including wine, that don’t even taste sweet.

As several studies have shown, the human brain doesn’t “recognize” HFCS in processed foods as excess calories. There are no signals saying “enough,” because HFCS does not trigger the release of leptin, a hormone responsible for suppressing appetite.

There is another issue to be considered. Glucose or “natural sugar” from fresh fruit is easily metabolized. Fruit is not only a good source of sugar but also of fiber. Fiber slows down the digestive process allowing for better absorption of nutrients in the body. While glucose can be metabolized in every cell, fructose is almost entirely metabolized in the liver. High levels of HFCS in processed foods can overwhelm the liver, eventually inhibiting its functions and causing inflammation. Clinical studies have found that rats put on a high fructose diet developed fat and cirrhotic livers, similar to damages from alcohol abuse. Just like with other toxins, the liver stops everything else to eliminate the fructose. If fructose continues to be added in high amounts, the health of the liver will suffer eventually.

While I agree with those who say that it is up to the individual to limit sugar in his and her diet, I also know that this is not an easy task, considering the ubiquity of fructose in our food supplies. When HFCS is used by food manufacturers in ninety percent of the products we can find in the supermarket, we can’t honestly proclaim that there is a choice to be made.